Sunday 21 February 2010

Hello Easter Island, goodbye South America

Our last stop in South America, after four incredible months of hitting the continent’s highlights, is Easter Island where we’re sat writing this now watching the sunset over the ocean from our campsite. The island is beautiful – a mix between tropical and windswept dramatic terrain (like a cross between a Scottish isle and Fiji) and has a fascinating history and culture. A few interesting facts about the place:
  • It is believed to be the most isolated inhabited place in the world – it sits slap bang in the middle of the Pacific with no other civilisations around for thousands of miles
  • The island is famous for its moai – large stone sculpted heads (some as high as 10m) believed to have been dedicated to deceased family members or clan chiefs and amazingly sculpted, transported and erected in various spots around the island
  • People think the island was first colonised in 1000AD by Polynesians who must have sailed over 2000 miles to find the place! This is like looking for a very small needle in a giant (and very dangerous) haystack!
  • It was visited (but not discovered) by Capitan Cook
  • Some people believe the island became over-populated with the locals exhausting much of the trees and natural food supplies ultimately resorting to cannibalism
  • The country was also raided for slaves and the slave raiders purposefully introduced smallpox – virtually wiping out all the island people
Island scenery
     

     



    Some examples of moai...

    So the small island has had a bit of a colourful history... Anyway, we have had a brilliant few days here. The weather has been amazing and the sea air very much welcomed. We arrived in the morning, hired bikes and set off to explore. The following day we hired a jeep and spent the day doing a tour of the island visiting the moais and other ancient ritual sites as well as a stunning tropical beach. Yesterday we climbed to the top of an extinct volcano crater, now filled with a huge lake and admired the views across the island and out to sea. On the way back down we saw a giant turtle sunning itself on the beach.



    Elizabeth's new friend



    The amazing beach

     
    The volcano crater


    After all the walking we decided today to rent a scooter and drive across the island back to the beach and have a lazy day eating BBQ food, lying in the sun, swimming in the sea etc. It’s been amazing. Tomorrow is our last day and we’re going to visit the museum in the morning and probably spend the rest of the day back on the beach (our flight is at 10:30pm).


    Our next stop is Tahiti (which we’re very much looking forward to!) which will take us into continent number three of the trip – Australasia (or Oceania to be precise). Since Easter Island is Chilean-owned it means tomorrow is officially our last day in South America!

    The sunset

     
    ...and now the moon's out


    Our favourite bits from North and South America


    Things we’ve seen and done
    • The whole of the road-trip around the USA (with one exception, the dodgy hostel in Salt Lake City)
    • The heavenly view from the top of Cotopaxi, Ecuador
    • Hiring a local’s motorbike and finding one of the most secluded and beautiful beaches in Brazil
    • Getting soaked in the falls at Iguazu, Brazil
    • Being a part of the action at the Maracana stadium when Flamengo won the Brazilian league title
    • Surfing with wild dolphins in Pipa, Brazil
    • Watching the sunrise over the Andes on my Aconcagua summit attempt and knowing that we were likely to be the highest people in North and South America (and possibly the world!) at that moment
    • Stargazing and pondering the meaning of life at the observatory near La Serena, Chile

    Places we’ve slept
    • Our first few nights were spent at the infamous “Ashbrook Hotel”, West Hollywood, LA – great location, generous hospitality and early morning wake-up calls!
    • The Wynn, Las Vegas – sometimes 5* luxury just cannot be beaten
    • Pousada Campestre, Trancoso, Brazil – an accidental find with delicious breakfasts (fresh fruit and cake!), it triples its price in peak season and is a stone’s throw from Madonna’s holiday home (A-list celebrity hangout, need we say more)
    • Casa 579, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil – my retreat in Rio with views over “The Marvellous City” whilst Tom faced adversities in the Andes

    Places we’ve eaten and drank at
    • Swinging Steak, Utah –flame-grilled steaks cooked by a real cowboy, washed down with Polygamy Porter beers
    • Monterey Fish House, California – very much a locals’ place serving delicious fresh fish
    • Green Eggs and Ham, Mancora, Peru – not exactly traditional Peruvian breakfasts but nevertheless a great start to the day
    • The Creperie, Tibau, Brazil – incredible sunset and crepes!
    • Don Julio, Buenos Aires – two lunches and couldn’t find fault with either (chocolate volcano dessert to die for)
    • Gran Danzon, Buenos Aires – uber-trendy bar with awesome cocktails
    • Botega Septima, Mendoza – celebrating Tom’s return from Aconcagua in style with top-notch Argentinian wine flowing

    Quotes that said it all
    • American guy, “Where are you from?” Me, “London” American guy, “ Ah London (pause), Paris, you must be French”
    • “I’ve lived in Vegas for 18 years, never been to the Grand Canyon though” – bell-boy at the Wynn hotel
    • “Oh my Chreestmas” – Marco our Inca Trail guide
    • “My eye-lids are sweating” – Elizabeth

    And so continent number 3 here we come!!

     
    Where will the trip take us next...?!


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