We weren’t sure what to expect as we headed to Singapore on a flight from Bali across the South China Sea. Having heard both rave reviews of the cosmopolitan feel of the country, as well as complaints that this leaves the island somewhat ‘sterile’ compared to the rest of South East Asia, we landed with open minds. However after four days of exploring the city, sampling the amazing (and amazingly cheap) food as well as the super modern, impeccably clean streets I can safely say that we are both fans!
A typical funky Singaporean walkway
Arriving into Singapore airport (rated the world’s best) we got our first taste of the strict laws and policing the country has in place as the flick knife I had bought from a street market in Paraguay was alerted by the baggage scanner. I had packed it in my checked luggage and didn’t think it would be a problem but on arrival we were promptly escorted across the terminal by police officers for an hour of questioning. They seized the knife after repeatedly asking “Mr White why have you brought something illegal into Singapore?” – which I didn’t really know how to answer to be honest. They eventually let me go (thankfully no fine) and we were on our way.
We stayed at a tiny hostel tucked away up a staircase in the thick of Chinatown amongst the hawker markets and food stalls. The owner was an old Singaporean man who told us he had been a professor of psychology in the US, head of mental health in the US, the general of the Singapore army, the son of the most famous photographer in Singapore, head of the Singapore prison system, owner of three shopping malls in Singapore and an author of several books. He was a real character and willingly told us how disgruntled he was with the Singaporean legal system (he was on my side with the knife) after introducing himself he promptly told us: “Biggest problem now for Singapore man – molestering women. Mandatory jail sentence”. We would often be greeted by him shortly after waking up and told more ‘anecdotes’ of the Singaporean legal system. It was a bizarre but entertaining stay to say the least.
Chinatown at night
Little India
Some very impressive Buddhist temples (complete with mini-me Buddhas)
Our typical day in Singapore involved waking up, having a slice of toast at the hostel, being talked at by the owner for at least half an hour before finally heading out into the city. We would usually get Chinese dumplings for breakfast, have Chinese food for lunch and something Asian (usually Chinese again for me!) for dinner. A meal at a market stall costs about £1.50-£2 and the food is amazing. During our four days we strolled around the city, went to see the museums and sights including an exhibition on Mughal emperors’ treasures which contained nugget sized emeralds, thousands of diamonds (on one brooch alone), more gold than you can imagine and the world’s largest ruby. We also explored the colonial part of town with remnants of the British Empire, visited more shopping malls than we care to remember, wandered around the tropical botanical gardens and spent an evening in Little India (where we had a gigantic curry).
Singapore's waterfront during the day
The docks at night
Colonial parts of town
Singapore was a mini-break from the rest of South East Asia in the sense that everywhere is air-conditioned, it’s crime free – no need to have one eye on our belongings at all times, transportation actually runs on time and there are no mosquitoes! The city is super modern, clean and efficient yet at the same time is still feels far from Europe. The people, customs and food are all very similar to elsewhere in the region and it definitely feels very much an Asian city, albeit with a large Western influence. That said, feeling rested after our relaxing stop in Singapore it’s time to get on the road again. Next on the list – Borneo!
Finally some random, "only in Asia" photos...
As we stepped out of the underground a local, flamboyant Chinese man was salsa dancing across the main square
Yum!
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